Even though we had slept
for around 9 hours, we were all still knackered when the alarm went off. Our
arms were aching so much from paddling, so it was a real struggle for us to get
out of bed.
The weather was awful! It
was really grey and raining which made it freezing cold! We had breakfast and
then had to get into our wet suits which was a challenge. They were still
soaking from the day before and felt disgusting! One of the big things at
camp was to not be late, so we were quite surprised when a few people didn’t
move from breakfast. It turns out they didn’t want to surf in the cold, so we
all ripped into them for being lightweights.
We went down to the beach
and picked up the surfboards. We ended up running along the beach to stay warm,
whilst Laura gave us a recap lesson. We learnt how to do a surf check, which
involves checking the height of the waves, the direction of the wind and the
current.
We practiced our position
on the boards and then got out into the water. Surprisingly, being in the water
was warmer than being on the beach. I was really happy that I managed to stand
up on my first wave. But then after that I didn’t catch one for ages and kept
wiping out. We stayed out for a couple of hours and then headed back in for
lunch. The worst thing after a
surf lesson is having to take off the wetsuit and wash it. In summer I imagine
It would be a lot nicer, but we were so cold that being outside was horrible.
We all got showered and
changed and then after lunch huddled next to the heater back in our rooms. Inka
and I were so tired we went and napped for a little while. When Luke and Jordie
called us to get back in our wetsuits, it was very tempting to stay in bed and
not go as it was so cosy. But I was loving surfing so dragged myself down to
the beach.
We did our warm up and
luckily didn’t have to sit on the beach for too long. Luke did show us a
technique to speep up and slow down on the wave, but I was more focused on
trying to stay on my board! As some of the group had
decided not to surf, we were merged into one big group. That made it a lot
harder to surf, as I kept bumping into people.
We carried on practicing
and everyone said they felt like they had improved by the end of the session.
Luke had the Go Pro out so was taking pictures of us surfing the whole time. The
waves in the afternoon were a lot bigger and there was less time between them.
At one point my board flew up into the air and the fin went straight into my
head which was pretty painful!
After the lesson we went
back to camp, showered and all hung out in our room. A few people were outside
but it was far too cold for us. We ate dinner, and then watched all the photos
that had been taken on the Go Pro. Afterwards, I went back to the room to talk
to mum and Grahame.
We spoke for around an
hour, and then everyone came into our room to chill and watch Friends on Megan’s ipad. It was a bit odd watching TV after almost 6 weeks without it! We watched around 3
episodes and then went to bed.
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